From the archives: Aston and Daniel wearing tweed and wool/cashmere raglan coats from the very buying trip referenced in the earlier paragraph.
Ever since our first seasonal drop last autumn, which this year has grown into a full autumn/winter collection, coats have been a recurring point of conversation around the showroom. But rather than discussing which type of coat is the favourite or the most versatile, the discussion has largely centred on sizing.
On one of our buying trips last year, coinciding with winter Pitti, we brought back a great selection of raglan coats. There were hefty tweeds in herringbone, houndstooth and classic checks, alongside lighter coats in cotton and nylon. They varied considerably in cloth, weight and construction, and when trying them on it is apparent that due to their construction, sizing doesn't always follow the usual logic of more structured garments.
An EU 48 might fit as expected, while an EU 52 could look equally convincing on the same person. This is not simply a matter of preferring an oversized coat. The construction itself allows more freedom in sizing than a structured jacket, where the shoulder seam gives a much clearer indication of how the garment should fit.
So what makes the raglan coat so forgiving when it comes to sizing? Unlike a conventional set-in sleeve, the raglan sleeve extends towards the collar, removing the shoulder seam that would normally provide one of the clearest indications of fit. This gives the coat more freedom to fall naturally over the shoulders, even when sizing up. We find that, as long as it sits well across the shoulders and the sleeve length works, additional room through the body can become part of the coat’s drape rather than making it look too large.
From the archives: Daniel () wearing his own raglan in a cafe in Florence Pitti Uomo January 2026.
Another important factor is the placement of the belt, if the coat has one. Many of the coats we source have a few years on them and tend to have fuller, more classic proportions. The belt often sits relatively high as well, which can make it easier to size up. Over the years, belt placement seems to have followed a similar path to trouser rise, gradually moving lower on the body. This is worth keeping in mind when sizing up, as where the belt sits can have a big effect on the overall balance of the coat.
From the archives: Daniel wearing a reversible herringbone tweed / cotton twill raglan coat from the Autumn/Winter 26 collection.
Outerwear in general gives you more room to experiment with sizing, and raglan coats are particularly interesting in this respect. With a set-in sleeve, sizing up changes where the shoulder seam sits, while a raglan has no such fixed point. Length, sleeve length and overall balance are still worth considering, but the size on the label does not always have to be taken quite so literally.
We continue to source these coats whenever the opportunity arises, and wear them ourselves, often a size or two larger than usual.